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Extended and Guaranteed Replacement Cost: If your home is damaged beyond repair, a typical homeowners policy will pay to replace it up to the limits of the policy. If the value of your insurance policy has kept up with increases in local building costs, a similar dwelling can generally be built for an amount within the policy limits.
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With an extended replacement cost policy your insurer will pay a certain percentage over the limit to rebuild your home -- 20 percent or more, depending on the insurer --- so that if building costs go up unexpectedly, you will have extra funds to cover the bill. A few insurance companies offer a guaranteed replacement cost policy that pays whatever it costs to rebuild your home as it was before the disaster. But neither type of policy will pay for more expensive materials than those that were used in the structure that was destroyed.
Most insurance policies provide adequate coverage because they include an inflation-guard clause to keep up with increases in local building costs. If you have replacement cost coverage, your insurance company will pay the full cost of repairing or replacing the damaged structure with a building of like kind and quality." In other words, if you were adequately insured and lived in a three-bedroom ranch before the disaster, your insurance company would pay to build a similar three-bedroom ranch.
Compliance with current building codes: Building codes require structures to be built to certain minimum standards. In areas likely to be hit by hurricanes, for example, buildings must be able to withstand high winds. If your home was damaged and it was not in compliance with current local building codes, you may have to rebuild the damaged sections according to current codes.
In some cases, complying with the code may require a change in design or building materials and may cost more. Generally, homeowners insurance policies won't pay for these extra costs, but insurance companies offer an endorsement that pays a specified amount toward such changes. (An endorsement is an addition to an insurance policy that changes what the policy covers.) Information concerning this coverage is found under ordinance or law in the Section I exclusion part of your policy.
The choice of repair firms is yours. If your home was adequately insured, you won't have to settle for anything less than you had before the disaster. Be sure the contractor is giving you the same quality materials. Don't get permanent repairs done until after the adjuster has approved the price. If you've received bids, show them to the adjuster. If the adjuster agrees with one of your bids, then the repair process can begin. If the bids are too high, ask the adjuster to negotiate a better price with the contractor. Adjusters may also recommend firms that they have worked with before. Some insurance companies even guarantee the work of firms they recommend, but such programs are not available everywhere. Make sure contractors get the proper building permits.
If rats are living in your neighborhood, there are steps you should take, even if they aren't in your home. Rats move freely in and out of buildings in the neighborhood, so any steps that your neighbors take to control rats will encourage them to move into a nearby building (maybe yours!). A community effort works best, where everyone in the neighborhood takes steps at the same time to prevent rats from entering the buildings and to remove their food and shelter.
Poison. Warfarin, chlorophaconone and Pival are all rat poisons. They work by making the rats' blood unable to clot, so the rats die of internal bleeding. Rat poisons must be fed daily for six to 10 days. Read the poison label before you begin, and be careful to follow all steps. Watch out for children and pets! Make sure the baits are clearly marked, and put them in low traffic, secure areas that might attract rats, such as under or behind boards, boxes, pipes or cans, and out of the rain and snow. Remove the baits when all signs of rats are gone. Follow what the label says about how to dispose of the leftover poison. If, after a month or two, there are still signs of rats, skip a month and start again. Stopping for a month and then starting helps keep the rats from building up resistance to the poison.
Once the rat infestation is under control, the goal is to prevent them from coming back. Help yourself and your neighbors by keeping trash picked up and placed in covered, rat-resistant containers. Promptly remove or repair any shelter areas, such as fences and old appliances. Periodically check for new entry holes into neighborhood buildings, and seal them up quickly.
The USB 3.0 standard does not directly specify a maximum cable length, requiring only that all cables meet an electrical specification: for copper cabling with AWG 26 wires the maximum practical length is 3 meters (9 ft 10 in).[81]
The IEEE 802.3af, 802.3at, and 802.3bt Power over Ethernet (PoE) standards specify more elaborate power negotiation schemes than powered USB. They operate at 48 V DC and can supply more power (up to 12.95 W for 802.3af, 25.5 W for 802.3at aka PoE+, 71 W for 802.3bt aka 4PPoE) over a cable up to 100 meters compared to USB 2.0, which provides 2.5 W with a maximum cable length of 5 meters. This has made PoE popular for VoIP telephones, security cameras, wireless access points, and other networked devices within buildings. However, USB is cheaper than PoE provided that the distance is short and power demand is low.
Ethernet standards require electrical isolation between the networked device (computer, phone, etc.) and the network cable up to 1500 V AC or 2250 V DC for 60 seconds.[99] USB has no such requirement as it was designed for peripherals closely associated with a host computer, and in fact it connects the peripheral and host grounds. This gives Ethernet a significant safety advantage over USB with peripherals such as cable and DSL modems connected to external wiring that can assume hazardous voltages under certain fault conditions.[100][101]
Failure due to cracks is a major structural safety issue for engineering constructions. Human examination is the most common method for detecting crack failure, although it is subjective and time-consuming. Inspection of civil engineering structures must include crack detection and categorization as a key component of the process. Images can automatically be classified using convolutional neural networks (CNNs), a subtype of deep learning (DL). For image categorization, a variety of pre-trained CNN architectures are available. This study assesses seven pre-trained neural networks, including GoogLeNet, MobileNet-V2, Inception-V3, ResNet18, ResNet50, ResNet101, and ShuffleNet, for crack detection and categorization. Images are classified as diagonal crack (DC), horizontal crack (HC), uncracked (UC), and vertical crack (VC). Each architecture is trained with 32,000 images equally divided among each class. A total of 100 images from each category are used to test the trained models, and the results are compared. Inception-V3 outperforms all the other models with accuracies of 96%, 94%, 92%, and 96% for DC, HC, UC, and VC classifications, respectively. ResNet101 has the longest training time at 171 min, while ResNet18 has the lowest at 32 min. This research allows the best CNN architecture for automatic detection and orientation of cracks to be selected, based on the accuracy and time taken for the training of the model.
Retreat. Close as many doors as possible between you and the fire. Seal cracks around the door to prevent smoke from entering. If you have a working phone, dial 911 or Virginia Tech Police and report the name of your building or address, the room number, and the fact that you are trapped and need to be rescued. Stay on the phone until the fire department arrives at your room.
Assemble at the area designated in your departmental Emergency Action Plan, if applicable, and remain there until instructed by a public safety officer or the fire department that it is safe to re-enter the building. If there is no designated assembly point, maintain a safe distance from the building to allow ample room for emergency personnel and equipment to access the building. Dial 911 from a safe place and report the nature and location of the fire. Follow directions of emergency personnel, if present. Do not go back inside the building until instructed by a public safety officer.
Interior wall finishes are typically more stiff and brittle than the structure itself. It is expected that these brittle finishes that have very low tolerance for movement will crack as the larger and more flexible parts of the structure begin to move.
Shear walls can be very strong but unavoidable features will create weak points in the walls. Doors and windows perforate shear walls and create areas that are prone to additional flex and rotation where headers frame into full height walls. It is common to find cracks that propagate from the corners of doors and windows since these areas act as hinges and rotate as the building moves back and forth. These cracks that run diagonally from perforations are generally of little concern to the integrity of the building.
Not all walls in a typical home are going to be designated as shear walls. Many interior walls are considered partition walls and are just along for the ride. It is common to find vertical cracks where partition walls intersect other walls or horizontal cracks where these walls intersect roof or floor structures above. These cracks form because the finish is unable to hold together the difference in movement between walls and does not indicate a failure.
Significant cracks in buildings will typically occur somewhere in the middle of the wall and run roughly horizontally. These cracks indicate that slippage or rupture of the plywood may have occurred which will reduce the capacity of the wall. Of course any floors or roofs that begin to sag or become uneven could indicate a problem. Walls that become noticeably out of plumb, especially if they are exterior walls, may also indicate hidden damage. Any of the aforementioned conditions should be evaluated by a professional.